Monday, July 15, 2013

31. Roughing (it)

Okay, maybe I was a bit hasty with my complete and utter dismissal of Thailand. Maybe. Actually, yes. Bangkok was alright, but I really enjoyed haggling. I am getting soooo good at it!

The best of Thailand for me, though, was the north country. We took an overnight train to Chiang Mai. I went in with a guy from Ohio on a bottle of booze. We walked to 7-eleven (p.s. 7-eleven has cornered the market here. It is crazy. There are more of those stores than there are bars, pharmacies, and hotels confined. They are literally every 5 to 7 doors.) So! We walked to 7-eleven, having decided on run and Coke. Problem: they did not have Coke.

Me: Let's just do Red label, then.
Brian: (blank stare)
Me: Johnny Walker Red. It's a whiskey. Whiskey and Coke. Yumm.
Brian: I don't do whiskey.
Me: Really? Not even with Coke?
Brian: no.
Me: well, what do you want, then?
Brian: (thinks intently, staring)
Me: ...vodka? I'll drink anything. Your call.
Brian: Absolute Raspberry and sprite?
Me: Are we 14?
Brian: I bartend on the weekends. It's quite good.
Me: (laughing) Seriously?

Seriously. At least I learned from the last overnight train and bought cups. This train was nicer than Egypt, but not as nice nor as private as China. This type converted when the man came around and had a curfew. Brian and I made it through the drinks while playing Uno and various other card games. I would like it to be noted that I poured heavier and that Brian shared with others and that we had the same number of glasses.

Next morning, I was roused by a Thai man saying in the most depressing manner possible "oran jooze". At 6am. The train was not scheduled to get in until 8:30am. Blech. As we got up, the man came around stripping the sheets from the beds and converting back to the table model. Brian did not get up. Brian was epically hung over. Later he reported that he thought he was still drunk. We all had to go to bed at 11pm. From the sound of his snores, he went straight to sleep. I, on the other hand, fell out of the to bunk 3 times from the rocky ride and felt like it was a normal morning. Obviously he has been demoted.

Chiang Mai itself was lovely, with a great traditional temple and...wait for it...TIGER KINGDOM!!!!!! You can go and pet tigers of various sizes. They are not drugged, but trained and feed regularly. They are like cats constantly having Thanksgiving! It was. Awesome. Mother, please note that I was not mauled by wild animals. That night we made our way to Muau Thai boxing. You tube that, because it is odd. And obviously I ride in a tuk tuk.

Our next stop, Chiang Rai, was definitely my favorite. I had asked Monte, our tour guide, about a temple that was not on our itinerary to see how closer it was. I really wanted to see this temple. He gave half an answer and we drove on. He got on the mic later, saying "Alright, guys, we're making good time. We don't usually make this stop, but since we have time, we're going to see the white temple--" I rang in with a very loud "YES!!!!!!!!" which led Monte to respond, "That reaction just made it worth it."

Gorgeous, gorgeous, strange but beautiful temple ripe with symbolism. I love it. I want to get one in GR.

That temple redeemed Thailand for me.

Yesterday we crossed the border into Laos. One of the girls remarked that she felt like a refugee as we loaded or belongings into a rickety boat and climbed on board to escape into a new country. Laos is VERY different. Drastically less developed. But good.

We cruised down the Mekong River in a private boat to Pakbeng, the midway point, where we spent the night in one of two hotels. It was very untouched, and lovely. I think that I was the only one that appreciated out, but that's alright. I think they may have been upset by the lack of wifi...and hot water.

I'm really looking forward to this, Laos. This week is going to astound me. I can just feel it.

P.S. Eating vegan here is crazy easy. Told you so!

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